Fritule, Kroštule & Holiday Sweets of the Adriatic

On the islands of Cres and Lošinj, where Nonna Do was born, the holidays smell like citrus zest, warm oil and powdered sugar. That’s the smell of fritule, the little doughnuts that appear on every Croatian coastal table at Christmas, and kroštule, the crisp fried ribbons that crackle when you bite them. Mom brought both traditions to America, and she paired them with favorites from her cookbook: a hazelnut roll cake (rolat) and sunny Italian lemon cookies. Here’s how to make all four, plus a simple plan for getting a holiday dessert table ready without stress.

Fritule: Little Doughnuts of the Adriatic

Fritule are small, round, and irregular, each one golden and crisp outside, soft and fragrant inside. Every family has its own version. This one uses baking powder so it’s quick and reliable, and it’s loaded with the classic flavors: raisins, rum and lemon and orange zest.

Ingredients

Makes about 40 fritule

• ½ cup raisins
• 3 tbsp rum (divided)
• 2 cups all-purpose flour (about 250 g)
• 2 tsp baking powder
• ¼ cup sugar
• Pinch of salt
• 2 eggs, at room temperature
• ¾ cup milk (or half milk, half plain yogurt)
• 2 tbsp melted butter, slightly cooled
• Zest of 1 lemon
• Zest of 1 orange
• 1 tbsp lemon juice
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• Neutral oil for frying (about 1½ quarts)
• Powdered sugar for dusting

Method

1. Plump the raisins. Soak them in 2 tablespoons of rum for at least 30 minutes, or overnight.
2. Mix the dry ingredients. Whisk the flour, baking powder, sugar and salt in a large bowl.
3. Mix the wet ingredients. In another bowl, whisk the eggs, milk, melted butter, the remaining tablespoon of rum, both zests, lemon juice and vanilla.
4. Combine. Pour the wet into the dry and stir just until smooth. Fold in the raisins and any leftover rum. The batter should be thick, like a very soft cookie dough, and should drop slowly from a spoon. Add a spoonful of milk or flour to adjust. Rest 15 minutes.
5. Heat the oil. In a heavy, deep pot, heat 2–3 inches of oil to 350°F (175°C). Use a thermometer.
6. Fry. Dip a teaspoon in the oil, then scoop a heaping teaspoon of batter and push it into the oil with a second spoon or your finger. Fry 6–8 at a time for 3–4 minutes, turning, until deep golden. Many fritule flip themselves.
7. Drain and dust. Lift out with a slotted spoon onto paper towels. Dust generously with powdered sugar and serve warm.

Nonna’s Tip: Test one fritula first and break it open. If it’s raw in the middle, lower the heat slightly and make them smaller. Round, even fritule come from small spoonfuls, not big ones.

Frying safety: Use a deep, heavy pot filled no more than halfway, keep the handle turned in, keep children at a safe distance, and never leave hot oil unattended.

Kroštule: Crisp Holiday Ribbons

Kroštule are thin strips of dough, tied into loose knots and fried until blistered and crisp. In Italy, their cousins are called crostoli, chiacchiere or galani. On the Croatian coast they’re made for Christmas, weddings and above all Carnival (Fašnik).

Ingredients

• 2 cups all-purpose flour (about 250 g)
• 2 tbsp sugar
• Pinch of salt
• 1 egg plus 2 egg yolks
• 2 tbsp softened butter
• 2 tbsp rum or brandy (some families use maraschino)
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 2–4 tbsp milk, as needed
• Oil for frying and powdered sugar

Method

1. Mix everything except the milk. Knead, adding milk a spoonful at a time, into a smooth, firm dough, about 5 minutes. Wrap and rest 30 minutes.
2. Roll as thinly as you can, about 1/16 inch. The thinner the dough, the crisper the kroštule.
3. Cut into strips about 1 × 6 inches with a fluted pastry wheel. Tie each into a loose knot, or cut a slit in the center and pull one end through.
4. Fry at 360°F for 30–60 seconds per side, until pale gold and blistered. Drain and dust with powdered sugar once cool.

Stored in an airtight tin, kroštule stay crisp for up to a week.

Nonna’s Hazelnut & Cream Roll Cake (Rolat)

A light sponge rolled around whipped cream and crushed hazelnuts. Mom calls it a Croatian-Italian favorite, and it’s always the centerpiece of her dessert table.

Sponge: 4 eggs, ¾ cup sugar, ¾ cup flour, 1 tsp vanilla Filling: 1 cup heavy cream, ½ cup crushed hazelnuts (toasted), ¼ cup powdered sugar, 1 tsp vanilla

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Line a 10 × 15-inch jelly-roll pan with parchment.
2. Beat the eggs and sugar for 6–8 minutes until pale, thick and fluffy; the batter should fall in a ribbon.
3. Gently fold in the flour (sifted over in two additions) and vanilla, keeping as much air as you can.
4. Spread evenly in the pan. Bake 10–12 minutes, until springy.
5. Turn the warm cake onto a towel dusted with powdered sugar, peel off the parchment, and roll it up in the towel from the short end. Cool completely.
6. Whip the cream with the powdered sugar and vanilla to soft peaks; fold in the hazelnuts.
7. Unroll the cake, spread the filling, reroll, and chill at least 2 hours.

“Roll the cake while warm — it remembers the shape.” — Nonna Do

Italian Lemon Cookies

Soft, cake-like cookies with a sweet-tart glaze. “Let the lemon stand out — it brings sunshine.”

• 2 cups flour, 1 tsp baking powder
• ½ cup butter, softened, and ½ cup sugar
• 2 eggs and the zest of 1 lemon
• Glaze: 1 cup powdered sugar whisked with 2–3 tbsp lemon juice

Cream the butter and sugar, beat in the eggs and zest, then fold in the flour and baking powder. Roll into 1-inch balls, bake at 350°F for 10–12 minutes until just set and barely golden underneath, and dip the warm cookies in the glaze. Add sprinkles for a festive touch.

A Holiday Baking Plan

Spread the work out and you’ll enjoy the day as much as your guests.

When	What to do
1 week ahead	Shop; toast and crush hazelnuts; soak raisins in rum and refrigerate
3 days ahead	Bake and glaze lemon cookies; store airtight in layers with parchment
2 days ahead	Make and fry kroštule; store in a tin once cool
1 day ahead	Bake, fill and chill the rolat
The day of	Mix and fry fritule; dust everything with powdered sugar just before serving

A final note: these are treats for sharing and celebrating. Enjoy them in the spirit they’re made, around a full table.

Nonna’s Takeaway

Holiday sweets are how the Adriatic says “welcome.” Fritule and kroštule from Croatia, rolat from both shores, lemon cookies from Italy: together, they tell the story of Nonna Do’s family better than any history book. Bake them with the people you love, and let the kids do the dusting. “Food is love. And there’s always enough love for everyone.” To learn more about Croatian holiday traditions, visit Croatia’s official tourism site.

More sweet reading: Rustic Olive Bread from Nonna’s Oven, Croatian Coastal Cooking, and the family recipe collection.